Green City Guide: Paris

Paris is the city of lights and romance. It is also the city of croissant, steak frites, and boudin noir (blood sausage), and the controversial foie gras. It's a city that smokes and drinks. But, while these things are an inarguable and important part of the Parisian cultural patchwork, they are but a part. Paris, like European cities including Copenhagen and American cities like San Francisco has progressed into the 21st century with some amazing strides toward a greener future. The world's largest bike sharing program, the Vélib, immediately comes to mind.

But perhaps while the Parisian culture consumes (food, cigarettes, coffee, wine) it does so with moderation we should take note of. Green your trip to Paris by living as the locals do, fully and moderately. Admire the beauty of the city and serious deliciousness of the food, whether it be an organic lentil salad or a sensible portion of local cheese and fresh baguette (and that will be GMO-free -- for the most part, the French do not get down with genetically modified food). Our 10 tips will help you carve out a green and cheap (if you want it to be) Parisian experience with relative ease and tremendous pleasure.

1. Take Public Transportation: The Métro
   Like many serious cities, Paris has a subway system, but unlike many subway systems, Paris's system, the Métro, is fast, cheap, and efficient. The hard sell: Operated by public transport authority Régie Autonome des Transports Parisiens (RATP), this transit system consists of 14 lines covering 380 stations (87 have connections to other lines). Each day it serves six million people, and every building in Paris is less than a third of a mile from a Métro station, according to DiscoverFrance.com. Signage is everywhere and the Métro does what every subway system should: gets you around easily, even without knowledge of the language. The exception is the occasional Métro strike day. Added eco benefit: limited air-conditioning. Open windows are the preferred method of heat control in warm months. Added aesthetic benefit: the Art Nouveau entrances designed by Hector Guimard are stunning.


2. Stay at the Hotel Gavarni or Rent or Swap an Apartment Through Craig's List
   The Hotel Gavarni, named after French caricaturist Paul Gavarni, is one of not-so-many green hotel options in the city. Staff uses eco-friendly cleaning products and each bottle is meticulously rationed out and diluted. Energy efficient lighting is employed throughout the premises and waste is recycled and sorted with fervor. The hotel's green efforts even extend to its press packet, which is only available online (no more CD-ROMS or paper).
   
   Or, perhaps you want to cut out the hotel completely? Craig's List has loads of listings for both rentals and apartment swaps. This option can be both more homey and adventurous and you can cook your own meals and better control waste and energy consumption.


3. Experience Bike Sharing at its Best: Rent a Vélib Bicycle
   For a mere euro a day, you can ride one of 20,000 durable gray bikes on the more than 230 miles of bike paths throughout the streets of Paris. With over 1,450 stations, the Vélib is the largest bike sharing program of its kind in the world and hugely popular among Parisians. The plethora of stations and user-friendly bikes make the Vélib approachable, but be forewarned: Small surcharges of one to four euro (about $1.30-$5.15) apply when bikes are used for more than a half hour at a time. The good news is this small fee tends to keep bikes in circulation, so wherever you are (there is a station every quarter a mile or so), you can grab a bike and easily get to your destination.


4. Dine at Vegetarian Restaurant Au Grain de Folie and Window Shop in Montmartre
   Kick off your obligatory and not-to-be-missed trip to the historic church Basilique du Sacré Coeur with a long lunch at Au Grain de Folie. With a reputation for slow service and homey grains and veggies -- this place is all about cozy atmosphere and a go-with-the-flow attitude. Lunch here is a great way to start an afternoon in the hip and charming Montmartre neighborhood (think Amélie, think van Gogh) where the hilly, cobbled streets are good light exercise and offer tons of little shops that are as fun to peep into and poke around in as they are to buy stuff at. Eco tip: Reduce your footprint by taking it all in instead of buying it all up.


5. Blow Your Budget with Vegetarian Lunch or Dinner at L'Arpège
   At Alain Passard's L'Arpège a vegetarian meal (130 euro for lunch, or about $170 folks) is so good, so beautiful, not even the most ardent omnivore will feel deprived. It's a stunning restaurant with impeccable design and cuisine. For a vegetarian or vegetable enthusiast, this is as good as it gets.


6. Go Thrift Shopping at the Les Puces de Saint-Ouen Flea Market
   Dedicate a Saturday afternoon to shopping in the completely overwhelming and totally spectacular Les Puces de Saint-Ouen Flea Market and you'll find more than a dozen individual markets, each large enough to be called a flea market in its own right. Wares range from antique furniture to vintage clothing to unique plates and glassware. This is the perfect place to find a one-of-a-kind souvenir, and since much of the merchandise is antique, used or vintage, you can feel good about purchases on an eco level, in addition to the already established you bought something very cool level. You'll also enjoy lots of open, fresh air. It's a win-win situation.


7. Drink a Glass of Organic Red Wine at Crèmerie Wine Bar
   France's serious, time-perfected methods of wine making have not prevented it from producing great, organic, pesticide and chemical-free wines. As Lou-Lou, a vineyard tour guide in Beaune, explains, "The French have been making organic wines for centuries. They don't like pesticides, they just don't care too much for telling people they can't use them. That would be an outrage." Nonetheless, many French winemakers are adding organic designations to their labels. At Crèmerie you'll find more than 280 organic wines (marked AB, Agriculture Biologique) many of which are also biodynamic or use little to no additives. The wine bar is perfect for a glass or several with friends, and the proprietor, Pierre Jancou, is passionate and knowledgeable about his calling.


8. Walk Around Aimlessly or Take a Walking Tour
   With friends, family, a lover or alone, walking aimlessly (OK, maybe with a little aim) around Paris is one of the most enjoyable things to do there. It's free, and a no-brainer green diversion. The optimal way to get down the aimless part is with a glass or two of organic red wine, but if you do better with a guide, sign up for a walking tour with Classic Walks or purchase Paris Walks for maps all over Paris, history, and notes on lesser-known attractions.


9. Visit a Green Space: Bois de Boulogne Park or Père Lachaise Cemetery
   For reasons not immediately obvious, the Père Lachaise Cemetery is a crowd favorite, a must-stop destination on everyone's short list of Parisian attractions. Strolling around the tree- and flower-filled somehow not-at-all macabre brainchild of Napoleon, from the tombs of Edith Piaf to Jim Morrison, from Marcel Proust to Oscar Wilde, is really calming. If you're more into walking among the living (prude), try a light picnic or stroll through Paris's Central Park equivalent, Bois de Boulogne. More than twice the size of Central Park, Bois de Boulogne is just as gorgeous during the day and as seedy at night -- go during the day.


10. Shop at the Batignolles or Boulevard Raspail Organic Market
    While the French are acclaimed for their legendary cuisine, (meat, cheese, bread, vegetables, the whole thing) they aren't necessarily known for organic produce. These markets, the Batignolles in the 17th arrondissement or Boulevard Raspail in the 6th, combine the spectacular vibe, variety, and quality you'll find in other Parisian markets with the organic growing methods now in demand. For celebrity watching, head to Raspail.

Travel much? Check out more Green City Guides.

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