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Green City Guide: Warsaw

Poland's booming capital has a new metro, high-end organic vodka, and loads of green parks.

Brian Merchant

By Brian Merchant
Brooklyn, NY, USA | Wed Feb 04, 2009 07:30 AM ET

warsaw Castle square old town photo

Warsaw's Castle Square in the Old Town.
iStock

Like in many major Eastern European cities, the fall of communism brought new life to Warsaw. Oppression in the 20th century—first with the Nazis and the brutal, failed uprisings during World War II, then as part of the Eastern Bloc under Soviet rule—gave Poland's capital a bleak reputation. Yet the last decade or so has brought about a veritable urban revolution, turning Warsaw into one of Europe's fastest growing historical cities—and also one of its most underappreciated.

Arguably, low-impact traveling is especially important here: Despite all the progress, Poland remains mired in a staggering 96 percent dependence on coal-burning for electricity. Which means, among other things, that there's a high probability for acid rain in this country.

But green travelers take heart, nearly 25 percent of Warsaw is covered in beautiful trees, shrubs, and greenery: Compare that to somewhere like Chicago, which clocks in a mere 11 percent. The green trekker will also have no trouble finding healthy vegetarian meals and easy-to-use public transit.

  1. Take Public Transportation: Warsaw Metro and the Train
    Warsaw boasts the Warsaw Metro—one of the newest subway systems in Europe—in addition to 200 bus lines and 30 tram lines. Although the Metro stays open until 3 a.m., there's only one line, which can be limiting. Buses, on the other hand, travel to nearly every corner of the city. Trams—while typically a little slower than the buses—are best during rush hour. Tickets are available at most stations, and thanks to increasing Westernization, you won't have to go to extreme lengths to communicate your travel plans to the ticket window folks, like this persistent man did.

    Swinging through Warsaw as part of a larger European vacation? Instead of hopping on a plane, take the advice of the BBC Green and ride the rail into the city. It's comfortable and convenient—and just think of all the emissions you'll have spared. Pick up a train ticket from Seat 61.

  2. Get Discounts with the Warsaw Tourist Card
    At 65 zloty (about $20) for three days, the Tourist Card is a great bargain: It gives you unlimited access to trams, buses, and the Metro, and you get free or discounted access to museums and tourist attractions. You'll also get free or discounted access to sports and recreation facilities, art galleries, and restaurants. Pick one up at the airport, most hotels and hostels, or travel agencies throughout the city.

  3. Stay at a Green Hostel: The Hostel Green Mazovia
    The refreshingly progressive Hostel Green Mazovia is near a rail station and the main attractions in the city center, so you'll be able to walk wherever you need to go. But the best part is this clean and well-managed hostel contributes some proceeds to the Green Mazovia organization. One of Poland's leading green activism groups, Green Mazovia fights for bicyclist rights, forest conservation, public transportation, and proper waste disposal. With slim pickings on green hotels, your next best bet is to cut down on transportation emissions and stay near the city center or the old town.

  4. Dine at a Green Restaurant: Biosfeera, Vega, or Green Way
    Polish food, while delicious, isn't typically what you'd consider green. Or healthy. Lots of sausage, fried eggs, fried cutlets, and butter-filled goods tend to dominate, from breakfast through dinner. Thankfully, there's a thriving international restaurant scene in Warsaw, including the likes of Biosfeera, a trendy, modern vegetarian restaurant. The menu is mostly vegan, and the chef says no to eggs completely. Or, try Vega, a healthy, vegetarian Indian and international cuisine based hot spot. Warsaw also boasts a vegan-friendly fast food chain, called Green Way, with locations around the city.

    One final suggestion—it's better to avoid fish. Remember how we mentioned that Poland gets 96 percent of its electricity from coal burning? Well, that coal burning leads to some seriously high mercury levels—which means mercury-filled fish fillets that could seriously disrupt your green vacation. Mercury poisoning is not something to mess with.

  5. Shop for Used Clothing and Soviet-era Gifts in Warsaw's Flea Markets
    Even in summer, Warsaw can be a tad chilly: It veers from mid 70 to low 50 degrees Fahrenheit sporadically. No matter. If you forgot to deck yourself out with warm organic clothing before you left, do some green shopping at one of Warsaw's many local and Russian bazaars and flea markets. You're sure to find great deals on one-of-a-kind treasures like Soviet jackets and memorabilia from Poland's communist days.

  6. Rent a Bike
    In many ways, Warsaw is an ideal city for biking, with 95 miles of bike lanes and nice wide Soviet-style streets. Unfortunately, the rapid expansion is making for scattered, less-than-comprehensive bike paths. Any moderately experienced cyclist will be able to overcome the mildly cumbersome system, however, and enjoy the fruits of biking in Warsaw. Rent modern bikes at rental shops including Wygodny Rower Bike Rental (32 PLN, or about $9.50 per day, deposit required). For an in-depth look at the biking situation in Warsaw, check out this overview of bicycle traffic in Warsaw.

  7. Take a Walking Tour and Hit All Warsaw's Main Attractions
    Many of Warsaw's attractions can be found within the 1.25 square miles of the city center, and the relatively flat landscape makes for pleasant, easy walking. Even though nearly all of the Old Town and historical sites were destroyed or severely damaged after the Warsaw Uprising during World War II, they've been immaculately reconstructed. The ul. Chmielna (Hop Street), is a fine pedestrian-only street, and ul. Nowy Swiat (New World Street) is closed to cars on the weekends. Don't miss the massive, Soviet-style Palace of Culture and Science.

  8. Order Green Vodka or Beer
    Whether you're out investigating Warsaw's burgeoning bar scene or looking for something to sip as you enjoy an idle afternoon of people-watching, make sure to order one of Poland's signature green drinks. First on the list is Chopin Potato Vodka, a gourmet organic vodka distilled with a single ingredient. Or, order an organic Polish beer, like Jagiello's Origo. If your bar or restaurant doesn't carry those, order a local Polish beer from the tap. It's greener than ordering bottles. Some of the popular beer brands in Poland are Okocim, Kompania Piwowarska, and perhaps the most famous, Zywiec.

  9. Visit the Parks: The Lazienki Royal Gardens, Powsin, Field of Mokotow, or Skaryszewski Park
    What would a city be without its parks? Plan a lazy afternoon in the sun at one of Warsaw's several free and beautiful parks and gardens. The Lazienki Royal Gardens are vast and spectacular, and feature such intriguingly named sights like the Palace on the Water and the Old Orangey. Or, look into visiting the botanical garden Powsin. There's also an actual forest, Kabacki, that is just steps from the metro. If straight-up parks are more your style, try the Field of Mokotow, which not only features greenery and a pond, but nearby pubs to boot. Finally, Skaryszewski Park is the biggest in the city, and makes for fantastic strolling and people watching.

  10. Take a Day Trip to the Kampinos Forest
    A mere 40-minute bus ride north, and you'll discover what's known as the Green Lungs of Warsaw—the Kampinos Forest. You might even spot some elk, lynx, and bison in this beautiful old forest, which draws locals on the weekends. To avoid the crowds, make your trek on a weekday.

Travel much? Check out more Green City Guides.

 
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