Green City Guide: Buenos Aires

Seems everybody is talking about the capital of Argentina these days. And why not: Buenos Aires is one of the 20 largest cities in the world -- surpassing London and Beijing -- and the third largest city in Latin America, after Mexico City and Sao Paulo. Often referred to as the Paris of South America, it's also a cultural hot seat, boasting a design, art, architecture, and music scene that buzzes with life. Offerings include over 140 museums, more than 200 theaters and countless design shops (to find the best, get a free Mapas de Buenos Aires map at any shop or restaurant in Palermo). More perks? During the months when many of us are shoveling snow, the city is sunny and hot, and with the weak peso, budget-friendly by most standards. Several parks and green spaces are located throughout the city and some neighborhoods are still filled with trees and peaceful cobblestone streets where the notoriously crazy drivers can't beat your bike.

Despite a name that literally translates to Good Air and involvement with the Clean Air Initiative, this city is struggling to resolve some major problems when it comes to green. Air pollution remains a critical problem: Transportation is the main culprit, accounting for 90 percent of emissions. Public transportation -- which should be the green alternative -- is one of the heftiest polluters in the city. Buses are run by private companies, without government subsidies, and shamefully unregulated.

Another huge issue is the Matanza river, a heavily contaminated watercourse on the southern area of the city that has been the subject of countless political promises.

But as environmental awareness grows around the world, Buenos Aires has seen a rise in green design ideas and products: first out of hungry designers who sought recycled materials out of need, now by a growing interest in some local segments. Find out more in TreeHugger's Buenos Aires archives.

Where to start? Here are some tips.

1. Stay in the Palermo Neighborhood.
   Green hotels have not yet hit Buenos Aires, so your best bet is to stay central to public transport and attractions. The Palermo Viejo neighborhood is located in the middle of the city's coastline. With help from young fashion designers, this neighborhood experienced a resurgence after the 2001 financial crisis. Hotels in Palermo include the upscale Vain Boutique Hotel and Esplendor Palermo Soho, or Morena's Place Hostel for the budget traveler. But perhaps the best way to regulate your footprint is with an apartment. Rentals are about $60 a day for two people in Palermo or lower in other neighborhoods. Try EnjoyingBA or Craig's List.


2. Ride Public Transportation
   Despite the unregulated emissions, public transportation in Buenos Aires is still greener than cabs and cars. Some 5,800 buses -- most operating around the clock -- service over 160 lines. Transportation Web site ComoViajo Todos has a route-finder to help you find your destination -- but only in Spanish, under the "Que me Tomo" section. In addition, the Subterráneos de Buenos Aires has six subway lines, which run every day until 10 p.m. (11 p.m. on weekends). ComoViajo Todos will map out your trip online.


3. Tour the City by Bike or by Foot
   There isn't a strong bike-commuting culture in Buenos Aires, but some neighborhoods like Palermo Viejo, Colegiales and Chacarita offer scenic rides through leafy tree-lined streets. The fellows at La Bicicleta Naranja (The Orange Bike) will rent you a bike at an affordable price (about $15 a day) and take you on bike tours. Buenos Aires is a big city to tackle on foot, so it's helpful to choose a theme or area. Try following the routes proposed by the Buenos Aires Tourist Office or sign up to a walking tour with an English speaking guide through BA Walking Tours.


4. Join the Local Anti-Plastic Bags Campaign.
   A few months ago, communication firm El Viaje de Odiseo launched a citywide anti-plastic bag campaign. The organization sells reusable bags for 10 pesos (about $3) stamped with the statement "No uso bolsas plásticas, gracias." Or "I do not use plastic bags, thank you." Each bag -- also a fantasic gift -- is made from natural cotton by La Juanita, a cooperative of unemployed people, and printed in non toxic paint by the street art group Run Don't Walk. More information is available in Spanish at No Uso Bolsas Plasticas.


5. Visit the Buenos Aires Nature Reserve, or Reserva Ecológica
   Declared a reserve in 1986, the Buenos Aires Natural Reserve, or Reserva Ecológica (site in English) is the largest green area in the city. It encompasses 865 acres of native flora and fauna by the Río de la Plata (Plata River) and can be explored by foot, bike, or guided tour.


6. Shop for Green Products by Designer Alejandro Sarmiento.
   Alejandro Sarmiento is a pioneer in green design in Buenos Aires, with well-known projects including Contenido Neto, which taught people in need how to build products with PET bottles. During the 2001 economic crisis, Sarmiento and his colleague Miki Friedenbach developed a way to turn the bottles into threads. Sarmiento also designed the Ruperta Iron chair, covered with rubber from tires, and the I-Brickbox, a magazine container fabricated from recycled PET bottles. Sarmiento is now teaching and heading up the Satori workshop project, but some of his designs can be found at the Malba Museum design shop and you can get in touch with him via his website, Alejandro Sarmiento.


7. Grab Breakfast or Lunch at Oui Oui.
   Don't leave Buenos Aires without having a breakfast of fresh baked bread, homemade marmalade and great coffee or a vegetarian pasta salad lunch at Oui Oui. This small pastry shop offers homemade food, quality hand-made products, and implements some green practices, such as selling reusable shopping bags. The place can be crowded so come early and be patient.


8. Dine Slow at Kensho.
   There are many green restaurants in Buenos Aires, including long-time classic Bio and the newer Prana. But Kensho, with critically-acclaimed organic vegetarian cuisine, is at the top of the green scale. The restaurant recently moved, but will reopen for lunch and dinner in the Belgrano district in November. Dinner is served in one seating, to everyone at once, and reservations are a must. Dinner can last until late, but if you're lucky, you'll hear chef Maximo Cabrera's bossa-fusion show at the end of the evening. Check out our review on TreeHugger.


9. Go Shopping for Green Fashion and Souvenirs
   Yes, your U.S. dollars are worth more than three times the local currency. So how about some responsible green shopping? On the fashion front, local label Juana de Arco has just launched a line using organic cotton, while designer Ana Walsh and the guys from 12-Na recycle old garments to make new pieces. When it comes to souvenirs, try the funky house accessories by designer Martin Churba, made with fabric scraps; Cargabags, produced with recycled wool-felt and ethically manufactured in Argentina; or Vacavaliente's bonded-leather gadgets. If you're looking for a smaller treat, what's more useful and entirely recyclable than a notebook? Find the coolest at Mono-Blocks, with covers made from vintage wallpaper.


10. Drink Organic Mate
    There are two things everybody will tell you to try in this city: the steak and mate, the local hot beverage. The brand Mision Natural sells organic yerba and tea, at most supermarkets at a reasonable price. After that you only need the mate, the metal straw, some hot water and sugar, and you're ready to go.

Travel much? Check out more Green City Guides.

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